My Foray into Bluefish Pâté

Jennifer Adams, Palate-to-Pen | All Featured Posts by Jennifer Adams
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Recently I was confronted with a rainy Sunday afternoon and the abscence of my girlfriends. Two of our crew were torturing frozen drinks with eager straws in the warmer Bahamian clime. The other was working the gray day away. As I had a hankering for a perfect Bloody Mary, I decided to partake in the company of our men by tagging along in an afternoon jaunt. On the itinerary: marine supply store and the “just cuz it’s on the same road, we may as well stop in” local bar pit stop.

Only one!

You guys are all jerks!

They laughed at my faux protesting and I ordered a Bloody Mary. She was just the redhead I was looking for—spicy and brimming with citrus wedges and plump olives for nourishment.

Two or three rounds later, all (but the one I’m saving for another rainy day) of our drink tokens clinked home in their jar and we headed to the market for the few stranded ingredients I needed for the only to do on my agenda—Smoked Bluefish Pâté.

Prior to this fateful Sunday, bluefish and I were strangers. Luckily, I have Nils to educate me about its oily disposition and need for immediate consumption after capture or smoke treatment. I also have a copy of the recently published second edition of Seafood Handbook from the editors of Seafood Business. This guide addresses everything fishy from proper preparation and safety to flavor and texture profiles. Since receiving a copy, I reference the handy two-page spreads about any fish fancy that strikes. I flip through pages that cover everything from global supply and proper cooking techniques to nutrition facts and cooking tips. The guide agrees with Nils about early consumption and the oily nature of bluefish and validates my instinct to play matchmaker with lemon and tomato as the acid tames the oil and strong flavor. Ah, reassurance from the experts…

Our friend Mike—one of the Sunday culprits—has a smoker, does the deed and freezes the goods. He had given Nils a package to travel with to Key West and hand off to his Papa. Because of baggage fees, we traveled very light and the fish didn’t make the cut. We’d forgotten about these lovely fillets for a few months only to reunite during a thorough freezer clean.

Inspiration thawed. A bit of honey whiskey cooed a special recipe in my mind’s ear the night before my boys day out, and I scribbled on the closest paper I could pinch, a Keno sheet. I’d play my hand at these ingredients the next day to see if my luck would strike.

As soon as we entered the kitchen, Mike busied his hands with the already familiar plump fillets. He plucked the skin clean of fish, rubbing the smoked chunks into crumbles.

Two cooks in the kitchen worked out just right and our unity flowed through the process. I caramelized shallots. Mike readied the fresh dill. I measured the poppy seeds, paprika, dried thyme and fresh lemon juice. Mike found the butter. I plopped into the bowl scoops of Greek yogurt and a block of cream cheese. Mike diced sun-dried tomatoes slick with olive oil. In the large bowl all ingredients melded together into one thick mound of pâté that took a couple elbows’ worth of grease to accomplish.

I caught a shot of the pâté before Rich (aka Rick while my woman is away) absconded with the bowl. Relieved that all went well, I ate mounds atop buttery crackers until the pâté rested weight in my belly. Mike disappeared into the bowels of the basement to retrieve his last package of fillets. A new season is upon us and he wanted me to have this final taste of last year. I was honored!

The next week, I peeled open the sealed bag and took in the now familiar aroma. Unplanned revisions to the original recipe ensued. During the first go-round, I caramelized the shallots. Mike’s fancy pan treated them to a day at the spa—warming their tensions away and tanning slowly to a perfect bronze. I also used less of each ingredient and sun-dried tomatoes packed in olive oil. With this second bluefish gift pack, I fried the shallots for texture. The sun-dried tomatoes, not packed in olive oil, were soaked in hot water for a few minutes for moisture. I upped the flavor ante with more dill, tomatoes and lemon juice. If you try this recipe, go ahead and make a Sunday of it. I sure did.

Smoked Bluefish Pâté

6 tablespoons softened butter

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3 shallots, diced

3 cups smoked bluefish, crumbled

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 cup Greek yogurt

1 package cream cheese, softened (8 oz.)

1/3 cup fresh dill, minced

1/3 cup sun-dried tomatoes, minced

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon poppy seeds

1/8 teaspoon paprika

Heat 2 tablespoons of butter and the olive oil in a skillet over a medium heat. When bubbles sizzle around the pan’s edge, add the shallots. Stir the bits to coat and loosen for about 5 minutes. Once they start to brown, lower to a medium-low heat and cook for 10 minutes, stirring every few minutes. Then, reduce heat to low and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
Toss the bluefish crumbles in a large bowl. Be sure to rub the fish between your fingers to check for any stray bones that would poke holes in the plan. Add the lemon juice, yogurt, cream cheese and remaining butter. Give the mixture a massage, making sure to the smooth out the butter lumps. Sprinkle the spread with the fresh dill strands, tomato flecks, thyme, poppy seeds and paprika. With a slotted spoon, gather up the shallots, shake them free of most of the oil, and toss them into the mix. Stir until all is colorful and smooth.

I’m not shy about spreading gobs of the pâté on crackers and/or toasted everything bagels. Poppy seeds live up to their name bursting solidity into an otherwise smooth bite. Tastes of smoke and ocean air are enlivened by sprightly dill, tangy tomatoes, crisp and candied shallots.

Always a wine girl, I’m trying to learn more about craft beers and have enlisted the help of my brother’s close friend, Matt of Drink A Better Brew. I sent him this recipe and he suggests twisting a cap off the following brews for a perfect pairing:

Amber Ales (the maltiness and subtle hop character of the amber will dull out the acidity of the dish and should make a for a perfect match): Bear Republic Red Rocket (already a fave of mine since Nils and I visited Bear Republic Brewing Restaurant in downtown Healdsburg), Anderson Valley Boont Amber Ale, Green Flash Hop Head Red, and Troegs Hopback Amber.