Hungry Mother’s Cornmeal Catfish

Chef Barry Maiden of Hungry Mother (Photo: Susanna Bolle)

As a boy growing up in Virginia, chef Barry Maiden of Hungry Mother in Cambridge went fishing nearly every day and the catfish he caught was a beloved staple on the family dinner table. So when he decided to open Hungry Mother, with its Southern-inspired cuisine, he knew he had to have a catfish dish on the menu.

The recipe he shares with us is one of the most popular items at the restaurant. It features a wonderfully crunchy cornmeal crust and a spicy creole mustard vinaigrette. Once you catch your catfish (or pick it up at your local market), it’s a dish that’s inexpensive, not at all difficult to make and, after tasting it, even if you’re the flintiest of Northerners, you may well wish you could eat catfish every day.

Here’s the recipe!

Hungry Mother's Cornmeal Catfish (Photo: Susanna Bolle)

Cornmeal Catfish (serves 5)

2 large eggs
2 cups whole milk
5 5 oz catfish filets
2 cups cornmeal
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon cayenne
canola oil for frying

• Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
• Lightly beat egg and stir in the whole milk, mix well.
• Place the catfish filets in the milk mixture, turn to coat both sides.
• In a shallow pan, combine the cornmeal and flour, and season with salt, black pepper, and cayenne, mixing well.
• In a large, cast-iron skillet, heat the oil over high heat.
• Meanwhile, dredge one catfish filet at a time in the cornmeal, so it adheres.
• Transfer each prepared filet to a sheet pan.
• Carefully ease the fillets into the hot oil. Allow the catfish to begin to brown nicely on one side but do not flip the fish. Put the whole pan inside the hot oven and allow to cook for about four minutes.
• Flip the fish and allow to cook 2-3 minutes more.
• Remove from pan and serve immediately.

Creole Mustard Vinaigrette

2 tablespoons shallots, minced
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons creole mustard, such as Zatarain’s
2 teaspoons honey
1 tablespoon capers
1/4 cup canola oil
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• In a mixing bowl, combine shallots and red wine vinegar. Allow shallots to “pickle” in the vinegar for about 10 minutes.
• Add creole mustard and honey to shallot/vinegar mixture and whisk to combine.
• While continuing to whisk, slowly drizzle in canola and olive oils. The mixture will be loosely emulsified.
• Add capers and season with salt and pepper. Whisk to re-emulsify, if necessary, just before serving.

Carolina Rice (recipe credited to Anson Mills)

For this recipe you will need a heavy-bottomed 3 ½-quart saucepan, a wooden spoon, a rimmed sheet pan, and a spatula.
1 cup (7 ounces) Anson Mills Carolina Gold Rice
1 tablespoon fine sea salt plus additional to season
6 cups spring or filtered water
2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• Bring the spring water and salt to a boil in a heavy-bottomed 3 1/2-quart saucepan. Add the rice, stir once, and return to a boil. As soon as the water boils, reduce the heat. Simmer gently, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the rice is just tender with no hard starch at its center, about 15 minutes. Drain the rice through a fine, footed colander and rinse well with cool water. Shake the colander to shake off the excess water.
• Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Spread the rice evenly over a rimmed sheet pan. Place it in the oven to dry, turning gently from time to time with a spatula, 5 minutes. Dot the rice with butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Continue turning the rice until the butter has melted and the rice is hot, about 5 minutes more. Transfer to a warm serving bowl and serve immediately